The heart of the world-renowned Italian fashion industry may be Milano, but a significant amount of fashion-related design and manufacture is done in the area on the shores and around Lake Como. This is especially true of the production of silk for textiles, for which Como has been a leading centre of production and innovation for centuries.

This article will offer some insights into the role of Como in the Italian fashion industry, which remains dynamic as ever, even in the midst of strong competition from Asia. A particular focus will be on Como’s continued and pivotal role in the manufacture of that most glorious fabric, silk.

Como, A Legacy in Silk Lasting More Than 500 Years

Silk production in Como dates back almost six centuries. It was in the 15th century that Ludovico Sforza, the powerful and wealthy Duke of Milan, started overseeing the mass-planting of mulberry trees around Lake Como in order to foster the rearing of silkworms. Sforza was a fervent patron of the arts. After all, he was the man that commissioned Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece, The Last Supper. Thanks to his efforts, the Como region quickly became a centre for silk production, with numerous workshops and factories being in operation by the early 16th century.

The 18th & 19th centuries were the golden age for silk from Como. Silk had become increasingly fashionable during those centuries, particularly among royalty and the upper classes. The emerging mercantile classes of northern Europe, France and Italy also bought silk furnishings and clothing in vast numbers in order to assert their wealth and increasing importance in those countries. Technological advances such as the Jacquard loom revolutionized silk weaving, which facilitated the design and production of more intricate patterns.

In 1869, the Setificio Paolo Carcano, a prestigious school for silk craftsmen, was established. This further boosted an already booming industry by training skilled silk masters. Just over a century later, in 1972, silk production in Como surpassed that of China and Japan combined.

The boom in Chinese manufacturing from the late 1980s onwards did result in a slowdown in Como’s fortunes, as did a reduction in the demand for silk, particularly in Europe. Even so, the Lake Como region today remains a significant Italian centre for the production, distribution and marketing of silk, with dozens of specialist companies employing thousands of people.

An Enduring Legacy of Luxury Silk

Silk production is an incredibly time-consuming and arduous activity. Its intricacy and precision can be awe-inspiring. For example, a cocoon spun by a silkworm is derived from a single thread, which, when unwound can measure up to 4,000 feet in length! That single thread must then be joined with other threads strong enough to become a fabric for textile production. Every single step of the process requires perfection in order to ensure a high-quality fabric. Diverse technical and creative skills are required by various artisans, skills for which Como is world-famous.

The region around Lake Como was a natural location for the production of silk for three principal reasons. First, there was the abundance of mulberry trees in the area, courtesy of Ludovico Sforza, and, secondly, the lake and nearby Alpine streams provided an abundance of water, an important factor in many phases of silk production. Third, the location was no coincidence. That part of northern Italy, encompassing the regions of Como, Lecce and Lombardy, has always been particularly industrious. It’s a legacy which lasts to this day. Como has always been and remains a perfect cultural fit for the ingenuity and creative prowess needed to make world-class silk.

The town of Como itself is about an hour's drive from Milan. It sits in the middle of what is referred to as the ‘Textile Valley’ of Italy, itself an important part of the global brand known as ‘Made in Italy’. Como’s shop windows are filled with the most vibrant hues and exquisite designs in some of the finest silk in the world.  Since the 1920s and still today, many of the leading fashion houses have turned to Como silk for their haute couture and accessories, in particular silk ties and scarves. These have included iconic names such as Chanel, Armani, Hermès, Yves St. Laurent, Karl Lagerfield, Valentino and Versace, to name just a few.

Como’s Role in Italian Fashion Today

Italy remains a country with a large and globally prominent manufacturing industry. The Italian fashion industry is a significant sector in Italy’s economy, having generated a turnover in excess of 89 billion euros in 2022 and contributing 6.6% to the country’s total manufacturing output. More than 53,000 companies that employ about 427,000 people operate in and allied to the Italian fashion industry.

There is no denying that silk demand has waned since the ‘fashion boom’ of the 1990s, while costs and competition keep rising. Yet Como remains a key player in the Italian fashion trade. Como still achieves an annual production of 3,200 tons of silk. That figure represents an impressive 85% of silk made in Italy and approximately 70% of all European silk production.

Some analysts remain optimistic about the luxury fashion market, of which high-quality silk is a key fabric. Angelo Manaresi, the director of ALMA, the luxury goods MBA program in Bologna, says this: “I think that the luxury market is a very transnational market and it is going to be larger and very successful, because we are human beings and we like good products, we like style, and we like to differentiate from others.” That may yet bode well for the silk masters of Como.

We at Tieroom love and appreciate our collection of silk ties and accessories. And Como, the city of silk, will continue to inspire fashion designers and customers. We too have our own Como page dedicated to ties and other accessories using quality fabrics from the region

Silk is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful fabrics ever produced by humans and will surely remain a mainstay of men’s ties and bow ties for years to come.